Characterization of materials and technical analysis of medieval fabrics
Keywords:
textiles, textile techniques, dyes, metal threads
Abstract
An interdisciplinary project has been carried out in the framework of the National Research Plan in Cultural Heritage (Plan Nacional de Investigación en Conservación, PNIC) and in collaboration with the Valencia de Don Juan Institute of Madrid. The project is focused on the study of a set of medieval fabrics using analysis techniques. This study leads to a more precise knowledge of the textile technology and the characterization of the used materials.
The analysis let us know different production centers, with a detailed relation of manufacturing textile techniques for different periods, and identify variations in the composition of metal threads depending on the geographical region where they have been produced.
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References
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BORREGO, P., SALADRIGAS, S., ANDRES-TOLEDO, M.A. (2014). Technical and stylistic study of two complete medieval cloths found in Carrión de los Condes, Spain. Textiles, basketry and dyes in the ancient Mediterranean world: Proceding of the Vth Purpureae Vestes International Symposium, Montserrat: 163- 170.
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HOKE, E., PETRASCHEK-HEIM, I. (1977). “Microprobe Analysis of Gilded Silver Threads from Mediaeval Textiles”, Studies in Conservation, 22: 49-62.
HULME, A.N., McNAB, H., PEGGIE, D.A., QUYE, A. (2004). “The application of liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry and accelerated light ageing for the analytical identification of yellow flavonoid dyes in historical tapestries”, Scientific Analysis of Ancient & Historic Textiles. Post-prints of first AHRC Research Centre international conference: 208-216.
INDICTOR, N., KOESTLER, R. J., BLAIR, C., WARDWELL, A. E. (1988). “The Evaluation of Metal Wrappings from Medieval Textiles Using Scanning Electron Microscopy-Energy Dispersive X-Ray Spectrometry”, Textile History, 19(1): 3-19.
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JÁRÓ, M. (1990). “Gold embroidery and fabrics in Europe: XI-XIV centuries”, Gold Bulletin, 23(2): 40-57.
JÁRÓ, M., GONDAR, E., TÓTH, A.L. (1993). “Technical revolutions in producing gold threads used for European textile decoration”. Outils et ateliers d’orfevres des temps anciens. Antiquités Nationales, Mémoire 2, Société des Amis du Musée des Antiquités Nationales et du château de Saint-Germain-en-Laye: 119-124.
JÁRÓ, M. (1998). “Differences in manufacturing technique, usually neglected, with the description of mediaeval metal threads made of metal coated organic material. Some remarks on the basis of the results of scientific examinations”, in R. Varoli-Piazza (ed): 141-148
KARATZANI, A., REHREN, T., ZHIYONG, L. (2009). “The metal threads from the silk garments of the Famen Temple”, Restaurierung und Archäologie 2: 99-109.
MANTZOURIS, D, KARAPANAGIOTIS, I., VALIANOU, L., PANAYIOTOU, C. (2011). “HPLC-DAD-MS analysis of dyes identified in textiles from Mount Athos”, Analytical and Bioanalytical Chemistry, 399(9): 3065-79.
MELO, M. J. (2009). “History of natural Dyes in the Ancient mediterranean World” en BECHTOLD, Thomas; MUSSAK, Rita (ed.), Handbook of Natural Colorant”, Capitulo 1, John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.
MEYER, L. (2000). “Textiles of Islamic Spain”, Medieval Textile Study Group, 24: 3-9.
PARTEARROYO, C. (1992). “Cortina nazarí” Al-Andalus. Las Artes islámicas en España. Madrid, nº 99: 338-339.
PEGGIE. D.A., HULME, A. N., McNAB, H., QUYE, A. (2008). ”Towards the identification of characteristic minor components from textiles dyed with weld (Reseda luteola L.) and those dyed with Mexican cochineal (Dactylopius coccus Costa)”, Microchim Acta 162: 371–380.
PIRENNE, F. (2005). “Tissus précieux au Trésor de Liège”. Trésors des catedrales d’Europe. Liège à Beaune: 128-142.
ROQUERO, A. (2008). “Tintorería medieval en Europa”, Ingeniería medieval en España, Fundación Juanelo Turriano & Ministerio de Fomento, Madrid: 234-243.
SALADRIGAS CHENG, S. (1996). “Los tejidos en al-Andalus. Siglo IX-XVI. Aproximación técnica”, España y Portugal en las rutas de la seda. Diez siglos de producción entre Oriente y Occidente. Barcelona: Universitat de Barcelona, 74-98.
SHEPHERD D. (1957). “A dated hispano-Islamic silk”. Ars Orientalis II: 373-381.
VV.AA. (2005). “Tejidos Hispano-musulmanes”, Bienes Culturales. Revista del Instituto del Patrimonio Histórico Español, 5.
VIAL, G., FAYARD, P. (1995). “Anhang Technischer Katalog: chasuble, dalmatique et chape de Saint Valère”, Flury-Lemberg et Illek: 236-255.
WOUTERS, J., VERHECKEN LAMMENS, A. (1989) “The coccid insect dyes: HPLC and computerized diode-array analysis of dyed yarns”, Studies in Conservation, 34: 189-200.
BORREGO, P., SALADRIGAS, S., ANDRES-TOLEDO, M.A. (2014). Technical and stylistic study of two complete medieval cloths found in Carrión de los Condes, Spain. Textiles, basketry and dyes in the ancient Mediterranean world: Proceding of the Vth Purpureae Vestes International Symposium, Montserrat: 163- 170.
CARDON, D. (1999). “D’ Espagne á L’Italie. Hypothése concernant un grouped soieries médiévales á fond de losanges liserés et bandes de samit façonné”, Techniques & Culture, 34, Soieries médiévales: 122-139.
DARRAH, J.A. (1987). “Metal Threads and Filaments”, Recent Advances in the Conservation and Analysis of Artifacts, London Summer School Press, University of London: 211-221.
DE GRAFF, J.H. (2006). “Master dyers to the Court of Sicily”, To dye anything that you want to dye. The “art of dyeing” and its significance for the understanding of historic textiles and their condition, Amsterdam: Universiteit van Amsterdam: 123-133.
DE JONGUE, D., VERHECKEN LAMMENS, A. (1999). “Une sederie losangée à bande de samit façonné”. Techniques & Culture, Soieries médiévales 34 : 122-135.
DE REYER, D., JEANTET, A., PILBOUT, S. (2002). “Les lamelles des fils metalliques organiques dans les textiles médiévaux: approche méthodologique de leur origine biologique”, Studies in conservation, 47: 122-133.
FERREIRA, E. S. B., HULME, A. N., McNAB, H., QUYE, A. (2004) “The natural constituents of historical textile dyes”. Chem. Soc. Rev., 33: 329-336.
HACKE, A.M., CARR, C.M., BROWN, A., HOWELL, D. (2004). “Characterization of metal threads in Renaissance tapestries”. Scientific Analysis of Ancient and Historic Textiles: Informing Preservation, Display and Interpretation, AHRB Research Centre for Textiles Conservation and Textiles Studies First Annual Conference, Textile Conservation Centre, Winchester Campus, University of Southampton, UK, 13-15 July, ed R. Janaway and P. Wyeth, Archetype Publications: 71-78.
HARDIN, I. R., DUFFIELD, F. J. (1986). “Characterization of Metallic Yarns in Historic Persian Textiles by Microanalysis”, Historic Textile and Paper Materials, American Chemical Society: 230-25.
HAWTHORNE, J.G., SMITH, C.S. (1979). Theophilus: On Divers Arts. The Foremost Medieval Treatise on Painting, Glassmaking and Metalwork. New York: Dover Publications: 1-216.
HOFENK DE GRAAFF, J. (2004). The Colourful Past. Origin, Chemistry and Identification of Natural Dyestuff, Switzerland: Abegg-Stiftung, London: Archetype Publications Ltd.
HOKE, E., PETRASCHEK-HEIM, I. (1977). “Microprobe Analysis of Gilded Silver Threads from Mediaeval Textiles”, Studies in Conservation, 22: 49-62.
HULME, A.N., McNAB, H., PEGGIE, D.A., QUYE, A. (2004). “The application of liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry and accelerated light ageing for the analytical identification of yellow flavonoid dyes in historical tapestries”, Scientific Analysis of Ancient & Historic Textiles. Post-prints of first AHRC Research Centre international conference: 208-216.
INDICTOR, N., KOESTLER, R. J., BLAIR, C., WARDWELL, A. E. (1988). “The Evaluation of Metal Wrappings from Medieval Textiles Using Scanning Electron Microscopy-Energy Dispersive X-Ray Spectrometry”, Textile History, 19(1): 3-19.
INDICTOR, N., KOESTLER, R. J., WYPYSKI, M., WARDWELL A. E. (1989). “Metal Threads Made of Proteinaceous Substrates Examined by Scanning Electron Microscopy Energy Dispersive X-Ray Spectrometry”, Studies in Conservation, 34: 171-182.
INDICTOR, N., BLAIR, C. (1990). “The Examination of Metal from Historic Indian Textiles Using Scanning Electron Microscope-Energy Dispersive X-Ray Spectrometry”, Textile History, 21(2): 149-163.
JÁRÓ, M. (1990). “Gold embroidery and fabrics in Europe: XI-XIV centuries”, Gold Bulletin, 23(2): 40-57.
JÁRÓ, M., GONDAR, E., TÓTH, A.L. (1993). “Technical revolutions in producing gold threads used for European textile decoration”. Outils et ateliers d’orfevres des temps anciens. Antiquités Nationales, Mémoire 2, Société des Amis du Musée des Antiquités Nationales et du château de Saint-Germain-en-Laye: 119-124.
JÁRÓ, M. (1998). “Differences in manufacturing technique, usually neglected, with the description of mediaeval metal threads made of metal coated organic material. Some remarks on the basis of the results of scientific examinations”, in R. Varoli-Piazza (ed): 141-148
KARATZANI, A., REHREN, T., ZHIYONG, L. (2009). “The metal threads from the silk garments of the Famen Temple”, Restaurierung und Archäologie 2: 99-109.
MANTZOURIS, D, KARAPANAGIOTIS, I., VALIANOU, L., PANAYIOTOU, C. (2011). “HPLC-DAD-MS analysis of dyes identified in textiles from Mount Athos”, Analytical and Bioanalytical Chemistry, 399(9): 3065-79.
MELO, M. J. (2009). “History of natural Dyes in the Ancient mediterranean World” en BECHTOLD, Thomas; MUSSAK, Rita (ed.), Handbook of Natural Colorant”, Capitulo 1, John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.
MEYER, L. (2000). “Textiles of Islamic Spain”, Medieval Textile Study Group, 24: 3-9.
PARTEARROYO, C. (1992). “Cortina nazarí” Al-Andalus. Las Artes islámicas en España. Madrid, nº 99: 338-339.
PEGGIE. D.A., HULME, A. N., McNAB, H., QUYE, A. (2008). ”Towards the identification of characteristic minor components from textiles dyed with weld (Reseda luteola L.) and those dyed with Mexican cochineal (Dactylopius coccus Costa)”, Microchim Acta 162: 371–380.
PIRENNE, F. (2005). “Tissus précieux au Trésor de Liège”. Trésors des catedrales d’Europe. Liège à Beaune: 128-142.
ROQUERO, A. (2008). “Tintorería medieval en Europa”, Ingeniería medieval en España, Fundación Juanelo Turriano & Ministerio de Fomento, Madrid: 234-243.
SALADRIGAS CHENG, S. (1996). “Los tejidos en al-Andalus. Siglo IX-XVI. Aproximación técnica”, España y Portugal en las rutas de la seda. Diez siglos de producción entre Oriente y Occidente. Barcelona: Universitat de Barcelona, 74-98.
SHEPHERD D. (1957). “A dated hispano-Islamic silk”. Ars Orientalis II: 373-381.
VV.AA. (2005). “Tejidos Hispano-musulmanes”, Bienes Culturales. Revista del Instituto del Patrimonio Histórico Español, 5.
VIAL, G., FAYARD, P. (1995). “Anhang Technischer Katalog: chasuble, dalmatique et chape de Saint Valère”, Flury-Lemberg et Illek: 236-255.
WOUTERS, J., VERHECKEN LAMMENS, A. (1989) “The coccid insect dyes: HPLC and computerized diode-array analysis of dyed yarns”, Studies in Conservation, 34: 189-200.
Published
2017-12-16
How to Cite
Borrego Díaz, P., Pérez, P. P., Albar Ramírez, A., Arteaga, Ángela, Marras, S., Roquero, A., Partearroyo, C., & Sanz, E. (2017). Characterization of materials and technical analysis of medieval fabrics. Ge-Conservacion, 12, 6-30. https://doi.org/10.37558/gec.v12i0.544
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