Color study of historic silks

María Luisa Vázquez de Ágredos Pascual; Rosa Herráez-Hernandez; Pilar Campíns-Falcó; Lucía Rojo Iranzo; Ester Alba Pagán

doi:10.37558/gec.v21i1.1133

María Luisa Vázquez de Ágredos Pascual ARSMAYA research group, Department of Art History, Universitat de València, Spain https://orcid.org/0000-0002-4433-8850
Rosa Herráez-Hernandez MINTOTA research group, Departament de Química Analítica, Facultat de Química, Universitat de València, Spain https://orcid.org/0000-0002-5106-0826
Pilar Campíns-Falcó MINTOTA research group, Departament de Química Analítica, Facultat de Química, Universitat de València, Spain https://orcid.org/0000-0002-0980-8298
Lucía Rojo Iranzo Technician of the Laboratory of Analysis and Diagnosis of Work of Art, Department of Art History, Universitat de València, Spain
Ester Alba Pagán VALuART research group, Department of Art History, Universitat de València, Spain https://orcid.org/0000-0003-0858-1156

DOI: https://doi.org/10.37558/gec.v21i1.1133

Keywords: silks, colour, diffuse reflectance spectroscopy, natural dyes, Fourier transformed infrared - attenuated total reflectance (FTIR-ATR), microscopic image by LM, LMi and SEM image, SILKNOW

Abstract

The chemical characterization of silk textiles of historic value may be necessary to achieve a better understanding of the production processes applied, to evaluate their preservation, to detect manipulations or forgeries, and to value the combination of tradition and innovation in contemporary manufacturing techniques. The main objective of this work was to study four historical silks from the Garín collection, all of them from the 20th century, although with 19th century designs. To this end, non-invasive spectroscopic and microscopy techniques were applied in order to obtain information on the dyes used during their production and their link with those used in the silk industry in previous centuries, and to ascertain their state of conservation. Moreover, the images in LM, SEM and CM are contributing to the development of a 3D virtual loom that will favor more accessible and inclusive museography in museums specialized in the silk sector. Both the study of dyes and silk fibers and their virtual reproduction through artificial intelligence programs applied to the study of cultural heritage, by specialists from the Robotics Institute of the Universitat de València, has been developed in the framework of the SILKNOW project (https://silknow.eu/).

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Author Biographies

María Luisa Vázquez de Ágredos Pascual, ARSMAYA research group, Department of Art History, Universitat de València, Spain

She holds a doctorate in geography and history from the Univesitat de València, and a second doctorate in art history from the Universitat Politècnica de València (Spain). She has taught in the Department of Art History, Universitat de València, since 2009. Belongs to the ARSMAYA research group, Universitat de València. Her research focuses on archaeometric and cultural studies of drugs, colors and aromatics in antiquity, from ancient cultures from America and Europe. She is PI of the Roma Hispana project. Artificial Intelligence and New Technologies applied to the study, musealization and dissemination of Spanish cultural heritage in Rome: la spezieria de Santa Maria della Scala (AICO 2020/083; Generalitat Valenciana). She is also PI of the project: Optimization of a Multiband Spectral System of Artistic Diagnosis focused to the implementation of innovative, sustainable and accessible Museum Itineraries: towards a Cultural Tourism in the key of Science, Inclusion and Well-Being applied to great Art Galleries (EU FEDER- Gen-eralitat Valenciana (ID-FEDER / 2021/076). She has been a member of the SILKNOW project (No 769504; European Union's Horizon 2020). She is author of numerous articles in specialized journals, such as Archaeometry, Journal of Archaeological Science, Journal of Cultural Heritage, or Analytical Chemistry, among others, book chap-ters and books in prestigious publishing, such as Universidad Nacional Autónoma de México, the British Archeological Reports, Cambridge University Press, New Mexico University Press, among others

Rosa Herráez-Hernandez, MINTOTA research group, Departament de Química Analítica, Facultat de Química, Universitat de València, Spain

Rosa Herráez-Hernández (Researcher ID: K-5645-2014; https://orcid.org/0000-0002-5106-0826) got a BSc degree in Chemistry in 1989, and the Ph. D. degree in 1992, both in the University of València. From 1992 she has been teaching analytical chemistry in the faculties of Chemistry, Pharmacy, Physics and Biology, and in the Technical School of Engineering. Since 2012 she is a full professor at the Department of Analytical Chemistry of the Universitat de València. Her research work has been carried out in the research group MINTOTA mainly in projects related to the analysis of drugs and environmental pollutants by chromatographic and spectroscopic techniques. She is co-author of more than 100 scientific publications, such as articles in specialized international magazines and different book chapters, and she has participated in numerous scientific congresses. She is also a member of panel experts of different quality agencies and specialized journals.

Pilar Campíns-Falcó, MINTOTA research group, Departament de Química Analítica, Facultat de Química, Universitat de València, Spain

Pilar Campíns Falcó (orcid.org/0000-0002-0980-8298) got the BSc degree in Chemistry in the Faculty of Chemistry of the Universitat de València (1976-1981), and the Ph. D. (1985) with Doctorate Award. From January 2002, she is Professor of Analytic Chemistry. She has supervised more than fifty research projects sponsored by public or private organizations related to: several industrial processes and environmental studies as regards pollutants, clinic studies in drug design and tumor markers (more than 250 published papers and 20 supervised Ph D). She has also experience on university management, she was the Vicerector of research and scientific policy of the University of Valencia since April 2014 to 2018. She founded in 1986 the miniaturization and total analysis methods (MINTOTA) research group. MINTOTA (http://mintota.com/) works in collaboration with other research groups and sectors, it has expertise in knowledge-innovation process (five patents). MINTOTA combines knowledge from chemical reactions, (nano)materials, transduction, calibration, accuracy, quality, sustainability, metrology, multiresidue analysis, solid phase (micro)extraction, chromatography, and in-situ analysis in several fields.

Lucía Rojo Iranzo , Technician of the Laboratory of Analysis and Diagnosis of Work of Art, Department of Art History, Universitat de València, Spain

Technician of the Laboratory of Analysis and Diagnosis of Work of Art, Universitat de València ; Department of Art History, Universitat de València, Avenida Blasco Ibáñez 28, 46010 València, Spain.

Ester Alba Pagán , VALuART research group, Department of Art History, Universitat de València, Spain

She is a tenured professor in the Department of Art History at the University of Valencia. She has a degree in Geography and History, specializing in Art History, and a PhD in Art History from the Universitat de València. She is an extraordinary award for a Bachelor's and Doctorate from the University of Valencia and an Ac-ademic Recognition Award from the Generalitat Valenciana. She has recognized 4 six-year research and 4 five-year teaching. Her research activity focuses on the study and analysis of museology and museography and art criticism, with special attention to contemporary art and cultural heritage linked to the exchange and dissemination of ideas and knowledge, from the perspective of visual studies and the gender perspective. She has been the PI of the SILKNOW project: Silk Heritage in the Knowledge Society: from punched cards to big data, deep learning and visual / tangible simulations (Research and innovation program under grant agreement No 769504; European Union’s Horizon 2020)

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